PIACENZA..THE HEARTLAND

PIACENZA
March 9, 10,11,12



















On the way to Piacenza we had a layover in Voghera which entailed changing platforms. Rather than tote our luggage from the platform down to the ground floor of the station then up to a different platform where the train will be departing from, an ordeal, especially with Ann’s luggage, I traipsed everything across the tracks. No one was looking and I didn’t see a third rail (for non-New Yorkers, that would be the live, electric, rail).

We arrive in Piacenza and are greeted by Stefano, a friend of Ann’s introduced to her by her cousin Jerry. He is impeccably dressed in an Armani suit, $500.00 Italian shoes, neatly coiffed and looking younger and thinner than Ann remembered ….compliments were flying and off we go to his country villa in his 750 BMW. Italy is looking good.

Stefano lives on an approximate 10 acre parcel of land in the country on the outskirts of Piacenza. There are two homes on the property: One a 3 story villa and another which he calls a guest house but is actually a very beautiful home with a great enclosed room off the tennis court and next to the adjoining beautiful gardens. We will be staying at the guest house.

On arrival we meet with his Aunt Lidia, his mother, Mariarosa, his father, Rodolfo and his son, Francesco. They live in another villa , over 600 years old we are told, just around the corner. We are treated royally and showered with love. That night we go to his restaurant in town where we meet many of his friends and/or business associates. He is part owner of the restaurant and appears to know everyone. In the bar section of the restaurant we drink champagne and have antipasti typical to this region, Emilio Romagna. This consists of a selection of meats called salamis but to our eye looked like thinly shaved fat, which was very tasty.

The three of us had dinner and were joined by Stefano’s friend Ricardo. He had formerly lived in the United States in the late 80s and early 90s where he worked as a cowboy in Wyoming and was on the rodeo circuit. He was a big man, very robust, loved American football, had fought in Somalia, and liked practicing his English. We had a great meal of pasta, fish encrusted in potatoes, various wines and aperitifs.

As we were trying to recoup from the day before, we could hear downstairs preparations being made for our next feast. Lidia and Mariarosa were making homemade tortelli which was served as the first of our five course grand luncheon. Tortelli is pasta square with stuffing that is braided together. Ann asked for a cooking lesson the next day where she practiced and finally mastered the delicate method of making this type of pasta…another promised meal when we get back home

After our nap Stefano took us to a mall where he wanted to buy our girls the latest….Pinko jeans. On the way home Ann mentioned to Stefano that we did not need to go the “nice” restaurant he had planned on for that evening. He said, “No, we will just have one dish.” To make a long story short we had several bottles of champagne, pasta with Beluga caviar in a cream sauce made right at the table and rock salt encrusted whole sea bass which was a beauty to behold.

The next we awoke late and I did not feel well. Ann hung out with Stefano, had her cooking lesson covering tortelli with an added bonus of making tagliatelle and then met up with his wife and daughter. I lay low. That evening Ann watched a movie at home and by the time she came up she wasn’t feeling well. Stefano insists we stay another day and we agree….we are a little travel weary at this point and the extra day of a home atmosphere is inviting.

The next morning I felt better and Ann was staying in bed. The procession began. Mariarosa and Lidia fussed over her and took care of her with chamomile tea and soothing words. It had been a long time since Ann had been mothered and she found this so touching. I on the other hand had made a slight recovery. Mariarosa came over to our guest house with her latest offerings….a pan filled with what appeared to be chicken and peppers. Ann was not well enough to take food this day but says, “Gerard you have to.” I sit down with the family, have Rodolfo’s homemade wine (made by his gardener Stefano says) and take a portion of the meat Mariarosa has made. Mariarosa, Lidia and Rodolfo have a lively conversation then Mariarosa leaves the room and comes back with a dictionary. She pages through the dictionary and then finally says, “Rabbit, rabbit!”. There is a fire in LA that they had seen on TV at their home and they want to show it to me but they can’t find it because the satellite TV at the guest house has about 500 channels and they just can’t find it. After the rabbit they ask me if I would like some lasagna…I point to my stomach and decline.

Stefano and family, Giovanna, his wife, Guilia, his daughter and Francesco, his son

Bruna, the housekeeper has finished washing and pressing my clothing and is now fussing over me and making me a strong cup of espresso for the road. We meet at Maria Rosa, Rodolfo and Lidia’s house for a goodbye. Including Stefano, none of them can understand why we are going to Cinque Terra…it is off season and why aren’t we going south for the warmth? They kiss and hug us, bestow presents upon us and invite us to return and come to their summer home in Monte Carlo on our next visit. We look forward to it.







Artichoke apertif for our going away lovingly poured for us by Mariarosa



Stefano and Ann at the station...Goodbye Piacenza!